Since 1988, in Collio Goriziano, land marked by a fratricidal war during the Second World War, there is the winery of Damijan Podversic, with its vineyards, located on the top of Monte Calvario, protected by a thick bush. Damijan’s vocation for viticulture was inherited by his grandfather, who cultivated lands not owned by selling wine for a handful of air, and by his father, from whom he inherited just half a hectare. Only with many sacrifices and determination did Podversic, assisted by his wife Elena and her three children, manage to expand the extension of vineyards, reaching about 10.5 hectares. In order to vinify these grapes in the best possible way, the construction works of the new cellar are about to be completed, almost entirely buried to guarantee a cooler ambient temperature, thanks also to the sandstone marl (ponka) left exposed, based on the principle of winemaking by gravity. Here will be hosted the grapes, fruit of a viticulture of natural imprint, even if Damijan himself admits that “wine in nature does not exist; to obtain it, it is necessary to carry out two technical activities: harvesting and crushing, after which the fermentations start. The most important work must be done in the vineyard”.
The starting point is therefore the grape, which is harvested manually at full maturity (and even beyond) and sent in small wooden boxes to the cellar. As soon as it arrives it faces the process of vinification in wood, scrupulously following the lunar phases, with a period of maceration on the skins of about 3 months (from when the first spontaneous tumultuous fermentation starts until the end of the malolactic fermentation) and a period of aging in large wood. Ribolla Gialla Selezione, in particular, is a wine, obtained from grapes entirely affected by botrytis, which rested in cask for 6 years and, subsequently, in bottle for another 4 years.
The 2005 vintage has a fascinating color between amber and orange, very little consistent, with an aromatic range that opens on notes of saffron, dried apricot, kumquat, resin and aromatic herbs, followed by hazelnut, strawberry tree honey, dried fruit and blond tobacco, with final balsamic and ethereal echoes. The mouthfeel is immediately very fresh, with an important sapid-bitter component, and a slight tannin, on which background, balanced to the millimeter, develops the impressive retro-olfactory amplitude (with resin, dried apricot and strawberry tree honey in the foreground) that accompanies the sip until the exceptional length closure.
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