The ancient Roman emperors and, later, the German ones of Sacro Romano Impero, knew very well the high quality of the vines cultivated in the sunny basin of Bolzano, and were used to stock “Potzner, the wine produced there. Today, in the same area, stands the Cantina Produttori Bolzano, one of the most important cooperative wineries in South Tyrol, formed in 2001 by the merger of Cantina Gries (founded in 1908) and that of Santa Magdalena (founded in 1930). The winery has 224 members who, led by oenologist Stephan Filippi, manage 340 hectares of vineyards, spread mainly in the district of Bolzano, with some parcels, such as Santa Magdalena, 50 kilometers further north-west. The strength of this winery is due to the wide variety of soils on which its vineyards are located, characterized also by heterogeneous altitudes ranging from 200 to 1000 meters above sea level.
Despite its size, the winery has continued to maintain a family tradition, promoting the attachment of individual members to their land, which they have known and cultivated for decades. This St. Magdalener Huck am Bach, for example, comes from the Huck Farm, originally cultivated by the uncle of the current gérant, Gottfried Plattner, who had bequeathed it to the latter, having no children. Gottfried, more than 70 years old, still continues to carry out most of the operations in the vineyard, leaving the most tiring tasks to his son Hannes, renewing the link between man and his land made of tradition, handiwork and craftsmanship.
The wine is made from Schiava and Lagrein grapes grown on the slopes of this farm (between 250 and 500 meters above sea level) that are harvested in full ripeness. Once selected, the best and healthiest grapes are vinified in red and, after fermentation, the wine is aged in large oak barrels and, subsequently, in bottle, before marketing.
Despite being a wine that makes immediacy its strong point, this 2016 vintage St. Magdalener Huck am Bach still appears extraordinarily intact, showing signs of excellent tightness, and also an unexpected idea of evolution. The ruby color is still bright, enriched by purple nuances, and the nose, despite its simplicity, does not give up to reveal notes of red cherry, thea rose petal, pomegranate, violet and black cherry garnet. The mouthfeel is extraordinarily pleasing, with great freshness, and a delicately velvety tactile sensation, with a retro-olfactory return of red fruit that accompanies the sip until closing on a typical and pleasant almond note.
Rating: 88/100
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